Paris

Arriving in, travelling through, Paris by boat is one of the most memorable and privilged experiences possible. Every key building, statue or view is close to the river, from La Defence to Notre Dame.

This page provides information about Paris and its waterways, travelling from west to east, from a boating perspective.
See also general notes (foot of page).

From Reuil one leaves the bras de Marly, back into the wide main river. Commercial peniches transporting aggregate and other building materials are often to be seen. After a short distance (PK35) there is the Port de Genneviliers, the main commercial docks complex for Paris. Then one has the choice of taking one side or another of the Ile St-Denis; the southern channel is restricted to downstream traffic only, from the northern channel branches the Canal St-Denis (7 ecluses) that passes by the Stadt de France and connects to the Canal St-Martin (5 ecluses and 2km tunnel) and hence the Arsenal basin, by-passing the long loop of the Seine in a direct line. At the southern tip of the Isle (PK25.5) there is a noteworthy hyperbolic paraboloid roofed sports centre (photo below).

PK24 Clichy - Port Van Gogh

We have not visited Port Van Gogh (right photo) - the website is informative, although in French.

From there the river is wide, with many houseboats (some are more like house-ships) lining the banks. Then along the channel by the Ile de Puteaux, past the glittering brave new world office blocks of La Defence and through the large Suresnes ecluse. Then past the old Renault car factory on the Ile Seguin (PK11) and, increasingly, past cement and aggregate and other industrial docks and terminals.

PK5-PK0 Central Paris

One is now floating through the heart of one of the world's greatest cities. Past the Statue of Liberty (small version), the Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, the Grand Palais and the Tuilleries, the Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre and its pyramid, the Opera (and its phantom). Then the Ile de la Cité, Notre Dame and the Ile Saint-Louis. And the innumerable historic bridges.

Unforgettable, but just like driving through through a big city, one has to keep one's wits about one, ahead and behind. The bateaux-mouche (flat wide long sightseeing boats) move very fast and don't 'make allowances', neither do the smaller water taxis. It is very important to note the traffic flow, controlled by lights, around the two historic islands and the changes in left-bank/right-bank navigation thereabouts.

Note that it is now not possible to moor at the Port de la Concorde PK3 (closed to visitor boats).

We are not sure if the halte by the Eiffel Tower at PK6 (open between May and October) is still open or not.

PK0 Paris Arsenal

Justly famed as The Place to Stay (for a few days or the entire winter), the Arsenal basin lies just downstream from the Ile Saint-Louis, between the river and the Place de la Bastille. At the southern, river, end access is via an ecluse. There is a waiting pontoon just downstream from the entrance with a telephone to call up the harbourmaster, but better to call up on VHF Ch9 or 0033 143 41 39 32. Mooring up can be tricky (the pontoon is a little wobbly) when the river current is strong and the passing peniche and river bus traffic passing by can be hectic. At the northern end the basin connects with the Canal Saint-Martin and many passenger tourist boats go through that way. The port is well run (by Olivier, Bruno and Remi) and surprisingly safe and secure. It is, however, very popular and booking or phoning ahead is strongly advised. Website here.

Bassin de la Villette

This brand new Parisian halte (opened July 2008) is located in the vast area of water at the end of the Canal Saint-Martin (through the tunnel at the end of the Arsenal) and is administered by the Arsenal harbourmaster (charges as the Arsenal). Only one report so far, from a member of the ANPEI (Association Nationale des Plaisanciers en Eaux Intérieures) : favourable.

East Paris - La Marne

Beyond the Arsenal one encounters a wide river busy with commercial traffic, the Bibliotheque Mitterand and then, at Charenton ('PK-5') the divergence between the (Haute-) Seine and the Marne and then fairly soon after, a shallow (1.5m) ecluse, Saint-Maurice. This is PK177 of the River Marne, PK0 being at Vitry-le-Francois. For information about the River Marne and the canals of the Marne (Champagne) route, click here. For information about the Haute-Seine and the canals of the Bourbonnais Route, click here.

Notes

Grehan very much welcomes your comments, corrections, suggestions and additions.
 
PK = Kilometre distance mark, as printed in waterway guides and found as actual signposts (occasionally) on the waterways.
PdP = Port de Plaisance (inland pleasure port/marina/mooring). Halte (nautique) = mooring place/pontoon. Ecluse (Sas in Normandy - 'sas' means 'chamber') = lock. Peniche = barge.
TE (tirant d'eau) = Depth. Check actual depths! The 'book' canal depth is in the channel centre, edges will be less and you may have a problem coming alongside so be careful. Tuck your nose in first and if necessary keep the stern (where the vulnerable prop is) poking out. There is often a shallow bar just outside the lower gate of an ecluse.
VNF SINGLE NUMBER - The VNF have introduced a nationwide single telephone point of access for making lock arrangements, etc and notify breakdowns and other emergencies - 0800 863 000 - you will almost certainly need to understand and speak a certain amount of French.
 
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This is an information guide - it is not a substitute for a waterways pilot book, nor is it meant to be. We strongly recommend obtaining a pilot book for each river or canal you travel. The information here results from direct personal experience cruising the waterways from north to south and east to west; and/or has also been gleaned from a number of sources and accounts. Photographs by Grehan; some other photographs by permission, or in the public domain; if we have inadvertently breached any copyrights, please contact us. Grehan's own photographs may be available for re-use, please contact us for permission.

  Paris - Marne - Saone