River Saone (Aval) PK255 - PK0
Information about the 255km of navigable and canalised river from Maxilly (Canal Marne a la Saone) to Lyon (River Rhone). There are 8 locks, none of them very deep (2m-4m); the river may be large (beyond Saint-Jean) but it is normally quiet and gentle, some winter conditions excepted.
Whilst the river carries some commercial traffic - for example, making the south-north passage from Lyon (and the Mediterranean) to the Rhine and locally, moving grain, limestone aggregate and cement - you will probably not be unduly affected except close to Lyon where its intensity is more noticeable. There are a number of places to refuel alongside the river itself, as well as various service stations nearby. And, in addition to the various places detailed below, there are many other places to moor, although the river is shallow in some places, alongside some banks.
The upper reaches, above Saint-Jean, feature occasional fallen trees and branches - on the banks and in the river itself. One can see some branches floating on the surfaces; there are also waterlogged ones just below. Keeping a good look-out is a good idea.
See also general notes (foot of page).
Basic Information
- Above Saint-Jean - minimum depth 1.8m, headroom 3.5m, width 5.1m. These increase significantly below Saint-Jean. Navigating the river should not present any difficulties to normal pleasure craft and it is one of the recommended routes from the Channel to the Mediterranean.
- In general, in season, ecluse opening hours are from 06:00 to 21:00. The two ecluses between Saint-Jean and the Marne a la Saone canal open later at 09:00, close between 12:30 and 13:30, and close at 19:00. These two ecluses operate via a 'perche' (twist the pole hanging above the river); the others are all manned - lifejackets must be worn.
PK255 Heuilley
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Ecluse controlled by perches. First lock, heading south, after the Canal Marne a la Saone. |
PK251 Pontailler
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The PdP is through a bridge (adequate headroom, but check) and into a side channel where there is a waiting pontoon, then a marina basin. Capitainerie (03 85 47 43 50) with showers etc. Alternatively, there is a long stretch of quayside on the river itself. Nice village, Atac supermarket is through the village centre, then turn right.
PK233 Auxonne
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A range of new pontoons (03 80 31 18 44) with water and electricity, just above the bridge. Or moor up in the 'traditional' place - the tree-shaded quayside between the bridge and the exit from the by-pass canal, by the barrage. PK230 Ecluse at the end of the canal - perches. |
PK219 Saint-Symphorien - the Canal Rhone au Rhin. PdP immediately beyond the access ecluse from the Saone. Also an over-wintering destination with repair facilities.
PK215 Saint-Jean-de-Losne
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[Pron. "Lone"] One of France's leading inland waterways centres, on the River Saone and at the end of the Canal de Bourgogne. All services and faciities are available:
- Mooring on the river quayside, water and electricity (arrange at one of the cafes alongside). The quay edge is quite low to the water.
- The Gare d'Eau (a large harbour) lies off the river, adjacent the Bourgogne ecluse. Within the basin there are three potential moorings, divided by small islands: firstly Blanquart's pontoons immediately on the left, then H2O's pontoons in the central section, then le Boat's hire boat basin in the furthermost. There is a signed route to follow around the harbour basin. Blanquart (speak to David Blanquart 03 80 29 11 06) is often reckoned the 'best' and has the best security but is also often full; H2O (speak to Jean-Paul Fortin 03 80 39 08 08) is the most popular and the largest; le Boat's pontoon is the least hemmed-in but is not available at weekends or 'change-over' days when it is full of returning hire boats (speak to Nicole Gilles 03 80 27 03 50).
- In addition to the quay and the Gare d'Eau, tree-lined bank-side mooring is possible a short way along the Canal du Bourgogne at Saint-Usage. Private peniches can berth at the 'Old Lock' PK211 by arrangement with H2O.
- Saint-Jean is a popular over-wintering place with a lively and sociable international community.
- Both Blanquart and H2O have excellent chandleries.
- There are three boatyards for repairs and maintenance, located around the Bourgogne basin above the ecluse. H2O is on the west side. Blanquart to the north and Chantier Fluvial immediately by the lock-keeper's house. H2O and Blanquart can lift out for work to be done 'on the hard'. Chantier Fluvial is a professional (commercial and private) peniche yard, with a large dry dock. In addition, there is another peniche repair yard by the river upstream from the quays, with a sideways ramp lift.
- Fuel barge by the canal junction.
- Shops in the village including Casino supermarket. Intermarche, Bricomarche and a building materials yard (all excellent) a short distance at Saint-Usage. Bars and restaurants including the authentically tatty and very friendly PMU bar opposite the cannon-strewn monument to Saint-Jean's brave defenders of 1636. Pastis (Ricard) is the drink.
- Railway station about 1km away westwards along the river, safe parking, regular trains to Dijon (thence very fast TGV trains to Paris).
PK187 Seurre
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A lovely riverside village with a number of possible mooring places. Pontoons by the island (above), nearer the ecluse and in a basin off the river itself; all good. Excellent showers in the marina capitainerie (03 80 20 31 05).
It is possible to cruise 10km along the by-passed river from Seurre and moor at Le Chatelet (03 80 79 02 03) - there are a couple of areas of shallows to be avoided on the way. Between Seurre and Saint-Jean there is a large new commercial harbour half-way along the Pagny by-pass canal.
PK167 Verdun-sur-le-Doubs
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Another lovely riverside village, just off the Saone on the River Doubs (which is fearsome in winter spate, otherwise benign). Limited pontoon space (03 85 91 85 06), with water and electricty. The old Saone ecluse above the village has lots of 'no entry' 'no mooring' signs. Pity. |
It is quite possible to cruise up the Doubs for 14km to Navilly; good depth and width but no bank-side moorings possible, apparently.
PK159 Gergy
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Halte by a cafe/restaurant and 3-star camp-site (03 85 98 12 90) |
PK142 Chalon-sur-Saone
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At PK145 the Canal du Centre and at PK144 a commercial peniche repair yard able to haul (slide) out sideways and repair the biggest barges. Opposite, the sailing club basin does not welcome visiting plaisanciers.
Chalon-sur-Saone is a great small city, with plenty to see and do, including fast rail links. It was the birthplace of photography - the Brothers Niepce museum by the river is thoroughly recommended. It marked the boundary between Occupied and Vichy France during WWII.
The PdP is more like a marina, with lots of boats and pontoons as well as showers, etc. From the river one must approach from the south side of the island that it is to one side of (and leave to the north) . Excellent big supermarket and brico very near the PdP. It is deservedly popular - we have been turned away 'full' - so phone ahead (03 85 48 83 38) and/or get there before mid-afternoon. Fuel and a lift-out crane, both of which have an expensive reputation. This is not a cheap stay, but it is a convenient one.
It is also possible to moor on the city quayside, above the Saint-Laurent bridge, north bank. Other river moorings are reserved for the cruise ships that dock here each day - don't chance your arm!
PK123 Gigny
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[pron. "Jinyee"] A disused ecluse and a really good place. We got turned away at Chalon and had to come on to Gigny (03 85 44 76 84), which turned out to be absolutely delightful. Very small supermarket not far, boulangerie lady turns up every morning at 8:30. Nice guy managing the port - been there 15yrs. Great dog-walking along the river bank. We stayed for days . . .
PK112 Tournus
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An ancient town, the abbey of St Philibert was founded in AD1000 and is well worth a visit. A long stretch of pontoons by the river, water and electricity. |
PK106 La Seille -Junction
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The River Seille is navigable (1.5m depth) for 39km from its junction with the Saone, through Cuisery to Louhans (picture). Four ecluses, including the access lock at the Saone (03 85 51 06 21), very little rise, quiet and peaceful. Moorings at PK1 La Truchere, PK13 Cuisery, PK35 Branges and PK38 Louhans. |
PK97 Canal de Pont-de-Vaux - Junction
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Pont de Vaux has an excellent modern PdP (above) (03 85 30 99 10) located 4km along a side canal (depth 1.2m). Highly recommended to us by friends who over-wintered there. At PK97 there is also a river pontoon but we are unsure as to available depth.
PK90 Asnieres
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A good pontoon, apparently with water and electricty (03 85 36 16 04) At PK87 Vesines another, less attractive and just 1m depth. |
PK80 Macon
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Macon is a fine and historic town with a number of potential mooring places.
At PK83 is the marina basin, off the river and a little distant from the town centre, but in a pleasant parkland setting and with fuel. At PK81 just by the St Laurent bridge (see above) on the island, a nice little pontoon. But beware of the shallows that lie immediately to the north; they're clearly marked in the chart-guides. On the opposite (town) bank, PK80, good new pontoons with water and electricity. Do not moor at the cruise ship pontoon!
PK73 Creches-sur-Saone
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Good pontoons at Port d'Arciat, a camping site. All facilities, including access to a watersports lake. 03 85 37 48 32 PK66 Saint-Romain - a small Halte for smaller boats |
PK55 Belleville
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In the middle of the Beaujolais terroir, a good new Halte (04 74 66 44 67), water and electricity. Large village 0.5km nearby. |
PK52 Montmerle-sur-Saone
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One of our favourite places. Halte by the village square, small supermarket. Perfect.
Approaching the adjacent bridge, when heading downstream (i.e on the west side), keep well over away from the bank - there is a shallow spit that extends beyond the two red port-hand marker poles.
PK40 Villefranche / Jassans-Riottier
PK35 Saint-Bernard
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PK43 Beauregard - a small Halte for small craft only
PK40 Villefranche/Jassans - (left) above the Pont de Frans, new pontoon with electricity, but we understand, no water.
PK35 Saint-Bernard - (right) new pontoon.
PK31 Trevoux
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Historic and very pretty, Trevoux was once capital of its own small principality of the Dombes. Good moorings by the campsite, grass, trees, walks along the river. |
PK22 St-Germain-au-Mont-d'Or
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There are three items of interest along this wide stretch of the river. PK23.5 (east bank) NauticAuto - boat repair yard with fuel barge. and the other side of the bridge at |
PK18 Couzon
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Just below the ecluse, east bank, a quay very close to a service station and convenience store. Opposite a stretch of private moorings on the west bank. PK12.5 Collonges - good small pontoon between piles, west bank. The famous five-star Paul Bocuse restaurant is close by. |
PK9-PK0 Lyon
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Lyon is France's second city; fine buildings, old buildings, public squares and a long history dating back before the Roman city, which was itself very important. We thoroughly recommend the walking tour of Fourviere (as in almost every French city, town or village, go to the Tourist Office) that includes visiting the 'secret' houses, their courts and passages. Also the modern and completely engrossing archeological museum near the Fourviere basilica (dominating the skyline in the top pic).
Visiting by boat is an equally memorable experience. From the river perspective, the city falls into three sections. Firstly, the Mont d'Or northern approach, roughly up to PK9: the picturesque Ile Barbe (where there is a disused lock, supposedly offering mooring but always full when we have gone past).
Secondly, the city itself, 5km of the river filled with twists and turns, many bridges and almost continuous public quaysides. Plenty of mooring possibilities (left pic), but selecting a location that is completely 'safe' might be a problem. We have never stayed overnight; people have, without difficulty, but we'd be loathe to leave the boat unattended. Maybe we're over-cautious.
Thirdly, the 2km southern tip. Formerly a huge railway depot it is now being comprehensively redeveloped. Many peniches and boats berth along the river here; there is an excellent fuel barge at PK1.5 (right pic), with a chandlery (looked expensive) and capitainerie. The small pontooned Halte at PK2 looks permanently full.
At PK0 the river (la Saone) joins le Rhone. Just beyond the tip of land, west bank, there is a disused lock now used for occasional water sports. It is has always looked empty and accessible and might make a brief or emergency mooring. There is also a pontoon opposite, a little further downstream, east bank, but we have never been close enough to see any detail; it may be tour boat only.
Notes
Grehan very much welcomes your comments, corrections, suggestions and additions.
PK = Kilometre distance mark, as printed in waterway guides and found as actual signposts (occasionally) on the waterways.
PdP = Port de Plaisance (inland pleasure port/marina/mooring). Halte (nautique) = mooring place/pontoon. Ecluse (Sas in Normandy - 'sas' means 'chamber') = lock. Peniche = barge.
TE (tirant d'eau) = Depth. Check actual depths! The 'book' river depth is in the channel centre, edges will be less and you may have a problem coming alongside so be careful. Tuck your nose in first and if necessary keep the stern (where the vulnerable prop is) poking out. There is often a shallow bar just outside the lower gate of an ecluse.
VNF SINGLE NUMBER - The VNF have introduced a nationwide single telephone point of access for making lock arrangements, etc and notify breakdowns and other emergencies - 0800 863 000 - you will almost certainly need to understand and speak a certain amount of French.
Contact Grehan >top of page<This is an information guide - it is not a substitute for a waterways pilot book, nor is it meant to be. We strongly recommend obtaining a pilot book for each river or canal you travel. The information here results from direct personal experience cruising the waterways from north to south and east to west; and/or has also been gleaned from a number of sources and accounts. Photographs by Grehan; some other photographs by permission, or in the public domain; if we have inadvertently breached any copyrights, please contact us. Grehan's own photographs may be available for re-use, please contact us for permission.
