The River Seine
Information about the 315km section of the River Seine from the end of the tidal estuary, at Tancarville (upstream from Honfleur) to the outskirts of Paris, including Rouen. 100km of this, the section to Rouen, consitutes one of France's major commercial shipping routes. It has significant tides and strong currents - the change between ebb and flood tides is dramatic. In former times the seasonal flood Seine bore ("mascaret") was violent (Victor Hugo lost his newly married daughter and son-in-law to one), but has been significantly tamed since the 1960s. There is much for the cruising plaisancier to keep a weather eye open for, but if the lower reaches are not exactly comfortable they are interesting nonetheless. The upper reaches also feature commercial traffic, but are much 'softer'.
See also general notes (foot of page).
The tidal Seine to Rouen
In general terms this section is best travelled in one leg. There are key times for modestly powered craft to depart for both upstream and downstream journeys - and avoid the hours of darkness when pleasure traffic is prohibited. Travelling upstream, this means 'catching' the flood tide as it travels up the river, which can provide a 12+hr 'window' . If LW Le Havre or Honfleur is at 08:00, HW Rouen is at 19:00, with the turn of the tide/current being relatively slow. Similar considerations apply travelling down to the sea; the 'window' is shorter but any adverse tide of lesser intensity - until one gets to the lower reaches. The estuary is well known for severe mists and fogs.
When under way, your craft will be rocked, possibly significantly, by the wash from passing ships - this has important implications if you are carrying your mast; it must be well supported and lashed fore and aft and side to side. The Seine mid-stream is no place to be dealing with a collapsed mast emergency! Keep a VHF radio watch on Ch73 - that's the frequency the commercial traffic uses - so you can listen in and get prior notice of big things ahead or behind and catching you up.
Stopping
Apart from the following there are no places to stop easily, safely or comfortably. Nearly all sections of bankside are sloping concrete, or rocks, or both. Even the following are subject to discomfort from large ships and barges passing fast close-by. They may be suitable for a brief foray to get provisions, or a halt to accommodate tides or tidal timetables. I would be loathe to leave a boat unattended.
PK346 - la Risle creek. Anchorage. Channel with approx. 1.9m depth at LW
PK310 - Caudebec. Large floating steel pontoon. Village with shops and supermarket.
PK278 - Duclair. Tethered barge. Village with shops and supermarket.
PK260 - la Bouille. Small pontoon. Small village, unknown facilities.
The non-tidal Seine to Paris
There are plentiful places to stop; the contrast either side of the first ecluse at Poses is impressive. One immediately enters a 'middle earth' of leafy side channels and islands. There are multiple options of channels to choose and explore (but be alert to depths). There are a number of places that can be busy with dinghies, rowing and sculling, and canoeing. Large barges and small ships continue to use the main channels.
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PK346 la Risle
" . . The Risle is a small river that opens onto the south bank of the Seine about halfway between Honfleur and Tancarville. Just after you enter, a small stream enters from the right. Just after this, a small stony reef appears near low water and runs half way across from the left bank to about the mid of the river. [This can be seen in the bottom left photo - looking back out towards the Seine] This constrains the channel to the right half (looking up stream). It doesn't look dangerous but it does take about 0.5m off the depth of the main channel. We anchored with 25m of chain and a spade anchor. We initially anchored before the steam as the channel began to shallow quickly. Later as the tide dropped we realised that the main channel was towards the right bank and we could see the disturbed water upstream which later became the reef. We re-anchored about 50m above the upstream bank of the little stream and all was well. At low water (springs) we had about 1.9m water. The bottom was mud - excellent holding and we came across no obstructions. The current ran out strongly and at 1.5Kt and continued to do so as the rate of drop slowed and stagnated. Suddenly, as if someone had turned on a tap, it reversed still at 1.5Kt - with no discernable slack water. From then on it rose very rapidly. This occurred 3 hour after low water at Honfleur. Our spade anchor absorbed both changes of direction without a whimper. If your anchor is liable to capsize, you will need to be vigilant. We left a couple of hours before low water and had a hard run up the Seine to Tancarville - hugging the bank to get a current less than 3 knots against us. The up-going tide caught us up Tancarville and we reached Rouen in only a further 8 hours at 5.8Knots water speed. . . " Taken (with permission) from Rosa's Blog, May 2008
[PK339 Tancarville Canal] |
PK310 Caudebec
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An historic village, known to the Vikings and famed (formerly) as a place to watch the ferocious Mascaret. There are two mooring pontoons; one may be in use by a river cruise ship, the inside (slightly more protected) side of the one pictured above is private. No services, free (we think). There are also some mooring buoys, same side, slightly downstream.
PK278 Duclair
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The mooring barge is located by the ferry crossing. Don't moor on the inside side, it gets very shallow at LW.
PK260 la Bouille
A small floating pontoon between two piles, on the village (southern) side. A possible brief halt or under duress. The last place to moor bankside until Rouen (15km) - from here onwards it is prohibited. The approach to Rouen (one of France's most important ports) becomes increasingly industrial.
PK245-242 Rouen
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Rouen, the city of Jeanne d'Arc and the cathedral of Monet, is worth an extended stay. The upper left photo shows the magnificent new lift bridge; close by (1km downstream) is the excellent new marina, sheltered in the Bassin St-Gervais, and an easy and pleasant walk along the river quayside into the centre. The old PdP (photo bottom right) is slightly closer to the centre but, being pontoons in the river itself, is subject to strong passing currents and everything (logs and branches) that floats down. It is next to a boatyard/chandlery, Villetard. The local VNF office is also nearby, or get your vignette (licence to use the waterways) online at www.vnf.fr
There are no de-masting/re-masting facilities at Rouen; there should be. There is a good fuel barge just upstream from Rouen at PK239 - also used by commercial traffic, so you may have to wait your turn.
PK218 Elbeuf
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A small PdP on the north side, up a side channel. |
PK200 Amfreville - Poses - le Mesnil
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Two side by side chambers available for the large Amfreville ecluse - call up on VHF Ch18 and watch the traffic lights. Potentially (dependent on tides) a deep lock, use the (widely spaced) edge bollards and those set vertically and horizontally into the sheet piling sides. Above the lock, very pleasant moorings at Poses/le Mesnil but limited village facilities.
PK183 Muids
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Two possible moorings. One in a large flooded quarry, Les Greves Du Lac, south side PK184 (02 32 54 68 60). The other, north side, by the village itself on a small pontoon. Very pleasant village with a small shop and a superb little cafe-bar next door. Recommended.
PK176 les Andelys - PK171 Tosny
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PK176 - A memorable location, with a beautiful ruined castle set on an overlooking crag of rock. It was built by Richard the Lionheart, as Duke of Normandy, to defend Normandy against the French. Do not attempt to enter the PdP at les Andelys itself, it is far too silted and shallow for any but the smallest boats. Instead, use the Nautikhome basin downstream at PK176 (see left photo) - a number of very favourable reports.
PK171 - The plaisancier 'quay' at Tosny is in ruins, but we moored overnight to a short section of ('private') concrete jetty. Lovely small hamlet.
PK150 Vernonnet (and Monet's Garden)
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At PK161, the large multiple chamber ecluse of la Garenne. VHF Ch22 and watch for commercial traffic.
At PK150, the small village of Vernonnet, with the small town of Vernon across the bridge. A popular and attractive place to moor, but there are shallows off so attention must be given to the (small) buoys and marks. Deeper draft craft may not get in.
3km distant, a pleasant bike ride, Monet's house and truly beautiful flower and water gardens at Giverny. May not be so great in a crowded high season.
PK121 l'Ilon
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Just above the ecluse at Mericourt is the entrance to L'Ilon, a good marina - with fuel - set in an extensive quiet and leafy flooded quarry. Anchoring would also be possible. It includes lift out and hardstanding facilities, but in autumn 2008 they appeared to have closed (possibly temporarily?). Small chandlery, friendly and helpful. A possible over-wintering location. Nearest village, shop and boulangerie at Guernes, 4km. |
PK109 Limay
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Accessed by easily navigable pretty side-channel, Limay has a ruined ancient bridge and a small village pontoon. Just downstream from the bridge and pontoon, a small PdP and boatyard. Across the Isle de Limay bridge lies the town of Mantes 'la Jolie' (the pretty), painted by Corot and where William the Conquerer (Guillaume le Bâtard) suffered a fatal accident falling from his horse.
At PK105, the gigantic electricity generating installation of Porcheville.
PK93 Meulan - PK91 les Mureaux
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Along another pretty side-channel lies the town of Meulan, with excellent shops, markets and local produce. It is advisable to use the bras St-Come and not the bras de Meulan, entering from upstream (we are not sure about getting through that central bridge arch!).
At PK91 (approx), south bank, there is a potential temporary stopping-place (right photo).
PK89 Vaux - PK85 Triel
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At PK89 a PdP "Val de Seine" in a basin off the river.
At PK85, around Triel, west bank, there are a number of sailing club moorings and also "Mallard" (033 139 65 60 73), a small boatyard.
PK81 Port St-Louis - PK89 Poissy - PK74-PK70 Conflans
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Port Saint-Louis PK81 is a large PdP off the main river, also workshops (so we understand). The only report we have was not encouraging, we'd welcome others, not having visited ourselves. Fuel is available - reasonable price.
PK89 Poissy, a small town with a ancient ruined bridge, a Peugeot factory and a visitor pontoon by the modern bridge.
Conflans Sainte-Honorine PK70 is one of France's biggest peniche towns; lots of barges and at PK74, downstream through the Andresy ecluse, a large commercial boatyard "d'Acheres" with facilities and travelifts to match. At PK71, junction with the River Oise (north to the Canal du Nord and to English Channel ports - St-Valery-sur-Somme, Calais, Gravelines and Dunkerque). Along the cul-de-sac bras d'Andresy at PK73 there is a small PdP (not visited, reports welcomed).
PK66 (approx.) Gaillon
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A small village pontoon. |
PK48 Bougival
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bras de Marly (Marly channel) - With Bougival ecluse (three side-by-side chambers) one definitively leaves or enters the Paris area. By the bridge just upstream of the ecluse is a PdP (photo right) that has always looked quite busy when we've gone past. A little upstream from that (PK47.5?, south bank, by a white crane) there is a small (private?) pontoon that might make a quiet overnight mooring.
PK45 Rueil-Malmaison
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An easy day's trip from the centre of Paris, this is a good pontoon (no services) adjoining a modern development. Lots of trees, shrubs and landscaping, walks along the river; and with shops and other facilities (petrol station) a fairly easy walk away, across the bridge in Chatou. Don't use the pontoon opposite (by the bridge, on the island) where fishermen and others congregate.
Notes
Grehan very much welcomes your comments, corrections, suggestions and additions.
PK = Kilometre distance mark, as printed in waterway guides and found as actual signposts (occasionally) on the waterways. The centre of Paris (near Notre Dame) is at PK0.
PdP = Port de Plaisance (inland pleasure port/marina/mooring). Halte (nautique) = mooring place/pontoon. Ecluse (Sas in Normandy - 'sas' means 'chamber') = lock. Peniche = barge.
TE (tirant d'eau) = Depth. Check actual depths! The lower Seine is tidal up to Rouen and the first lock at Amfreville PK202. The depth alongside smaller pontoons in the non-tidal reaches may be less than 1m. Buy a guide, use your depth gauge. The 'book' canal depth is in the channel centre, edges will be less and you may have a problem coming alongside so be careful. Tuck your nose in first and if necessary keep the stern (where the vulnerable prop is) poking out.
VNF SINGLE NUMBER - The VNF have introduced a nationwide single telephone point of access for making lock arrangements, etc and notify breakdowns and other emergencies - 0800 863 000 - you will almost certainly need to understand and speak a certain amount of French.
Contact Grehan >top of page<This is an information guide - it is not a substitute for a waterways pilot book, nor is it meant to be. We strongly recommend obtaining a pilot book for each river or canal you travel. The information here results from direct personal experience cruising the waterways from north to south and east to west; and/or has also been gleaned from a number of sources and accounts. Photographs by Grehan; some other photographs by permission, or in the public domain; if we have inadvertently breached any copyrights, please contact us. Grehan's own photographs may be available for re-use, please contact us for permission.
