Unstepping.
A common experience seems to be that boatyards that offer this may be friendly and know how to operate a crane, but are not in business to provide a 'de-rigging' service. You may (as we were) be expected to undo and generally prepare everything, then they will attach a strop to the mast, lift it up and lay it onto the supports you have provided on the boat. In that respect they do not 'look after one' as one might hope. A shame, since for most of us unmasting does not happen often and is a worrying event - problems at the time maybe and maybe problems stored up for the future. We taped the positions of all our shroud and stay bottle-screws and took photographs of all the critical bits of our rig, hopefully to reassemble it correctly in the future.

Supporting.
We saw pictures of boats with masts being carried by fairly light timbers - and we saw boats in the flesh like that. They must have had masts that were much lighter than ours, because after a (potentially terminal) calamity our bolted X-frames had to be re-made in 75x75 fence post timbers, with a 3rd leg strut, and this was not 'overkill'. Between Le Havre/Honfleur and Rouen you will encounter a big river with strong currents and sea-going ships and barges that together create significant wash and movement in your craft. In Paris the many 'bateaux mouche' move fast and don't take prisoners. The Rhone is like the Seine, with strong winds too. Even when moored, passing craft (freighters, barges, even small speeding fishing boats in Sete) can create a significant wash that not only rocks the boat but the tied-down mast as well. Beware! Your mast not only needs to be supported well, it must also adequately resist fore-and-aft and side-to-side movement through lashings down as far from the mast in both directions as you can contrive.

Photographs here

Awkwardness
The mast stick out, at both ends. Firstly, one needs to be acutely aware of this 'new' factor when manoeuvring the boat. We've got an old blue fender hanging down from its end aft, and a bright orange bucket covering the end, forward - to remind at the appropriate time. Secondly, the water pouring into locks (ecluses) when going 'uphill' (i.e. to Paris and well beyond) creates considerable potential movement at the bows, sufficient to bash the mast end on that nasty rough and slimy lock wall if one is not careful. Good warping technique and control is important (see "Locking") . . and we find our bowthruster really earns its keep. The supported mast gets in the way, moving about the deck, especially when one needs to get somewhere quick. We supported ours at a height (needing 3m clearance) where we don't crack our heads in the cockpit, we can raise the spray hood, and on deck we can fairly easily duck under from one side to the other.

A Carry On?
There is the option of not carrying the mast. In our innocence, we chose not to arrange transportation to a 'destination port' because (a) it costs and (b) we didn't know where we might want to re-mast. Carrying increases alternatives but adds complication and anxiety (see above), and height. On smaller canals like the Midi, bridges are narrow and low. 9 months on, on the Midi where locks are also tricky, we'd be very glad not to have it - to be more suited to inland conditions - but we would not have changed our original decision. So far, we have knocked the end of the mast just the once, but . . .
If you want to have your mast transported south you might try contacting one of the bigger marinas there - Port Napoleon, Port Camargue, Grande Motte . . .

Fenders
We bought two big round fenders and four big tubular fenders to complement the ones we already had.
In retrospect, four big round fenders would not have gone amiss - we've used our two in various configurations.
(1) We started out thinking the round jobbies would help 'straighten' at the bows but we then found them better used at the stern, to keep the stern quarters away from the lock walls and thus protect the mast overhang back there. We found it easier to concentrate on and keep the bows under control (using the running moor method and our bow thruster) than the stern.
(2) We then found that, with a fair degree of certainty, we could normally moor port-side-to and so switched the big roundies to that side, fore and aft.
(3) On the Midi, 9 months on, the initial surge of water into the curved sided ecluse is so strong the boat moves around a great deal. It is also not quite so possible to predetermine which side one may moor to, and the ecluse may include one, two or three other boats - often hire boats under minimal control, if that. We have found (going up) these locks to be quite hazardous and we'd now like big roundies fore and aft, both sides.

Ruth's Tie
On the waterways one keeps ones fenders out all the time, but the heights of things one nuzzles up against varies - this is an important point. Ruth invented a tying and hooking method that means the fender height can easily - and quickly - be changed, without re-tying. The fender is tied at the base of the stanchion such that its bottom is paddling in the water (some pontoons are quite low, and some locks fill to the brim). Along that length a nylon hook has been threaded and knotted such that (a) when clipped onto the mid-lifeline the fender is out of the water at 'normal' pontoon height and this is also our usual voyaging position and (b) when clipped onto the top lifeline it rests against our rubbing strake which is at the widest part, and this is the usual lock-wall-protection position. Clever huh?

Fender Boards
We made two fender boards from the biggest patio decking planks we could find. The planks were initially hung from their top edges using the biggest hooks B&Q had, but in the event these were pulled straight when the plank caught in one of the first locks we went through. We changed to holes-through and a chiselled-out channel for the rope.

Tyres
We obtained four small used tyres*, taped inside them three big plastic coke bottles to provide buoyancy, and covered each in an apron formed from a tough woven polypropylene mail sack. [*The VNF regulations allow tyre fenders - if they float and if each is attached at two separate points.] The tyres are hung from through the tread, not the wall (where the rope would be highly susceptible to abrasion against lock walls). So far they've worked well - but another one or two each side would not go amiss. The tyres are covered by the fender board, which takes the knocks and scrapes (there are many, from rough stone and concrete) and which holds them in place.
The point about this arrangement is that it provides a very tough wide continuous static centre section of protection - where the boat is constantly nudging up against something. It also provides protection that can be set low down - to, or into, the water's surface. This is important since many ecluses fill 'to the brim' and many canal banks are low and knobbly. One's hull may be lying against a rough edge at the waterline.

"You can't have too much protection"

Spicey Variety
French locks - ecluses- vary considerably in size, depth, shape, bollard position, operation and the kind of traffic that passes through them. These are the main types we have encountered (you might note that none of them was mechanically 'wound' or pushed open by the user, like British Waterways). (They do exist).

• Seine and Saone
  Locks on big rivers, with big barges (peniches), freighters, etc as commercial traffic. Traffic light signals for stop, wait and enter. VHF communication (use it, call up about 2km before - don't expect fulsome responses, however). Bollards are usually set into the lock walls. Bollard spacing - horizontally and vertically - suits barges, not yachts - this means it's difficult/impossible to get a bow line to one bollard and a stern to another. You may have to 'running moor' or put both bow and stern round the same bollard (which naturally reduces control). Moving up from one bollard to the next requires a little 'timing' and co-ordination.
• Smaller Canals and Rivers - e.g Marne a la Saone
  Depths can vary considerably. Entering a small lock you may have to control the boat whilst a bight is lassoed up to a bollard 2-3m above. This takes skill, practice, and luck. Stand on the coach roof. Alternatively, someone could ascend a slippery ladder with a rope-end whilst the boat floats around below (not for us). Or you could use the crochet hook-on method, taking advantage of the strong steel ladder that exists in many locks (not all, very few on the Midi), provided it is reasonably in the right place, on the 'right' side (where your fenders are set up ideally, where you are used to working, etc.).
  The Marne has a few locks with sides that slope out - tricky if you're descending? No, they also now have floating pontoons inside and one can tie up to them.
  
• Rhone - floating bollards
  The Rhone has enormous locks rising tens of metres, but they're very easy since one loops onto bollards that rise with the water level (they also fill quietly and easily). VHF contact with an eclusier in a watchtower. Problems? You can only get bow and stern lines onto the one bollard. It is easy to catch the end of the fender board in the vertical slot in the lock wall that precedes or contains the bollard. Fenders may slot into the slot and become ineffective. Less pristine floating bollards (e.g at the Paris Arsenal ecluse) take a while to move up in time with the boat during which time your ropes may slip off the top (cross 'em).
• Midi - curved walls
  The Midi - being so old - is a different kettle of fish. One eclusier per lock, pressing buttons. The locks are curved on plan, which makes it more likely your bow, stern or what's sticking beyond, will get close to the wall. Or hit it. Midi locks often cascade water over the gates into the chamber, which makes them a bit intimidating. And they also feature very fierce initial surges of water, making control very difficult indeed. It is important to use bow and stern lines, the stern being the critical one to keep tight and short. We have currently (May '04) found it critical that crew leaves the boat just before the lock. (Bollards are too far back to be lassoed). Possibly crew leads the boat in holding the bow line. Stern line is then thrown up to crew who makes a turn around the aft bollard, then the bow line is turned, then the end of the stern line is passed down to helm, crew looking after the bow line from the lock-side. Fender size and position is also important.

Operation
(1) By a lock-keeper eclusier. The normal arrangement for locks of any significant size.
(2) By rods ("perches"). There is a rod hanging above the canal about 500m before the lock. Approach it, give it a twist (anticlockwise, we think) and wait to check that the traffic light changes from red to red and green, or red and green to green. Once one has got the green light, enter the lock and moor up adjacent a vertical two rod mechanism. Grasp the blue rod and tug it upwards (this can be tricky and need a few tugs to work). A bell will sound, the lock gate will close behind you, and filling/emptying will start. When complete and the gates open another bell will ring and one then has a few minutes (enough time) to get out. The second rod? That's the red emergency one.
(3) By remote control (a few locks on the River Marne). The Frank (Zappa). Just like a TV - approach the lock, press the button, make sure there's the appropriate response and things happen as they should do.
(4) By a travelling eclusier / eclusiere. This happens on the Marne a la Saone canal. She will meet you - by prior arrangement via the VNF office - at the first lock (e.g of the day) and ready it for you. She operates the mechanism, you help where appropriate by closing or opening gates on the side she can't get to without walking all the way round. You exit, she completes closing the lock, gets in her micro car and meets you at the next lock. Teamwork, respect and friendliness are the orders of the day - wherever possible. You may meet the occasional grouch, we had one unpleasant young man for 2hrs, the rest were lovely people.

General Principles

• Commercial vessels always go in first, even if they turn up 10mins after you - the eclusier will usually ask you to wait. On the Rhone, one left the fastness of his concrete control tower and cycled to the end of the lock (they're that big) to hand signal "wait" (not specifically to us!). In fact it's better to be behind one of these floating behemoths than in front anyway. There's not much point in overtaking commercial craft anywhere near a lock.
• It's better (quieter) at the back of the lock. Not so far back that your stern hits the gate, or bangs the underwater cill by the gate as the water drains away. In bigger locks, we usually try to use the second bollard in. We find it important to be clear about what bollard we're aiming for, as early as possible.
• It's easier going down, than up. No trying to get mooring warps up to bollards many metres above. Much of what we say here, is about going up.
• Always wait for the gate fully to open both when entering and leaving. Never be hurried unduly, even by the eclusier, and especially not by other users. Enter as slowly as is commensurate with steerage.
• With some exceptions never be less than fully controlling, by hand, all mooring warps. Never fully tie up. As ever, a controlling turn around a cleat or winch makes things easier (and safer) than directly tugging along a rope.
• Entering a lock it is one's stern that is the most difficult bit to keep under control. When the lock starts to fill the significant inflow of water will then make the bow tricky to control. Fairly obviously, bow and stern lines are the normal answer, with the stern line being attached first (one can then always drive forward to bring the bows to a satisfactory position). Mooring the bow first can produce worse control problems with the stern (swinging across the lock) than vice versa. We have seen rotated boats have to leave locks stern-first. (Schadenfreude, I think it's called).
• At some point the boat and its cleats will move from being lower than, to be higher than, the bollard. This means (a) the rope may pull vertically off the bollard, so if appropriate 'cross it' and (b) be alert to once 'clear' ropes fouling lifelines, bikes and other deck detritus as the boat moves up/down.
• If you think you're inexperienced and incompetent, you should see what some people you share the lock with are like! (=Take Care)

The 'Bargee' Running Moor
Where appropriate (see above) we might use the bargee running moor method (although they have the considerable advantage of a nice long flat side to their vessels) (which they don't seem to mind bashing too much). The method involves using a bow or mid spring rope, looping onto a lockside bollard roughly adjacent the cockpit, and using gentle forward throttle and steering to hold the boat, in correct alignment**, pushing forward against the spring. We have found that a mid spring works as well as a bow spring, and avoids the bother of the warp tangling the lifelines. There must be a decent distance between the bow or mid cleat and the bollard aft of it for the method to work, otherwise bow control will not happen and a stern-swing will.
[** "correct alignment" means - neither end of the overhanging mast hits the lock wall . .too hard . .].

Crochet Hooking
As noted, some deeper locks have fixed bollards set at intervals in the walls - the intervals may suit barges, but we find them difficult - most particularly because as the boat rises up past the bollard position ropes tend to slip off the top before it's convenient to move them up to the next bollard. Shallower locks have bollards spaced along their edges but it can be tricky to lasso a bight of rope over them from 2-3m or more below.
But every lock** has a ladder, or two or more, and they go from top to bottom, with closely spaced steps (naturally). This iron ladder is often wet and slimy making climbing up potentially hazardous, but it is also substantial enough for a yacht to use to moor-to, using a 'crochet' (hook).
We have used a 'rond' (bank-side) anchor as our crochet, although it is not 100% perfect for the job. The technique is to feed the bow spring line through the crochet's ring, hook the crochet on the ladder at shoulder height, and cleat back the line and running moor as usual. When one has risen enough, remove forward power temporarily, move the hook up the ladder, and then resume forward control. If you don't have suitable hooks, you can loop a bight through the ladder and back on board, but this is clumsier and has a greater 'tangle potential'.
** Exceptions - (a) many on the Midi don't, (b) really big locks have floating bollards, (c) neither are suited to this method and (d) some ladders are just not in the right place . .

Other Options?
1) Don't moor, just float around under engine control? This has been strongly suggested (a Dutch steel cruiser). We couldn't do it at all safely - wouldn't want to. No eclusier we've encountered would allow it (of us, although we have seen a big river pleasure boat just "float").
2) Ask, and moor to a barge? This would mean tying to a naturally heavy object/bollard moving up (or down) in the lock. Easy? Well, we were turned down once and didn't try again. Would only suit locks/waterways actually carrying commercial traffic, with locks big enough to use the method. We have seen a number of indifferently tethered steel barges swing from side to side across the lock. Grehan becomes a peniche's GRP fender? no thanks!

Courtesy
We think this is important and it seems appreciated, even on the huge Rhone locks. Whether by voice or VHF, as we leave we always say "merci, monsieur/madame et bonne journee". Nearly always get a positive response - voice, wave . . If it is the eclusier's job to help his/her users, it is our part of the bargain to help where appropriate and wanted, and to be friendly.

Bird's Nest Soup
Rivers and canals are delightful, leafy places, often with languid shallow waters. Even if the water is not that languid, it will contain mud, silt, twigs, leaves - all sorts of particles that can clog up your engine cooling water intake, supply pipe or filter. This is a hazard when travelling along; it becomes worse when passing through locks because there the languid soup boils up and whatever was lying peacefully at the bottom or at the surface gets properly mixed in, at a time when you will be using the engine - in forward and reverse gears - critically. Not surprisingly, engine cooling problems - blockages - occur most often during and immediately after, locking. [Except of course, for the obvious actually running into some shallow patch of mud].
The engine cooling alarm shrills away and immediate turning-off (to prevent serious damage through overheating) is called-for, with consequent loss of power and control. The first time this happened we were mid-Seine - we turned off, looked around for a 'refuge' to moor to, saw two peniches bankside, drifted in their general direction as much as we could, then switched on for as short a time as possible whilst we got into position and tied-up.

Backwash, Check and Clean
Through necessity we discovered the remedy.
Use a hand or foot pump, via the filter bowl inlet hole, to backwash the boue out of the pipe and the inlet. The dinghy footpump works extremely well for this purpose - we keep it conveniently to hand, with the appropriate adaptor already plugged into its hose.
We also learned that checking and cleaning the filter basket at setting-off, at midday lunchbreaks, and after having arrived was a necessity. The stuff that gets pulled in and trapped there is amazing. Whilst we were moored next to a big Finnish motor cruiser, they cleaned their twin filters and inspected their (to us) giant-sized pump impeller. The pile of twigs that came out of the filters looked like a bird's nest. There were only two vanes left on the impeller.

Lock in, Tie up, Turn off
On the Midi the situation is far worse than anywhere else we've been - the overheating alarm problem ocurred three days running. We have adopted a preventative strategy that consists of checking, cleaning and backwashing whenever we stop, and stopping to do that when appropriate. We also turn the engine off in locks - after having set our lines, etc. This is what the VNF say you should do, but we've never yet seen anyone do it.
Except now, us.

Logs
On some waterways, at some times of the year, there can be lots of substantial chunks of trees, saturated and floating well down in the water. In quieter* rivers like the Marne they require looking-for and avoiding. In fast-flowing rivers like the Seine they can also present a significant hazard when one is moored-up. We were hit by a big log whilst pontooned at Rouen and avoided being hit by one twice that size by lassoing it and hitching it to the pontoon support column. Travelling slowly in 3.5m+ depth approaching Meulan we clonked something hidden below - and it was not a shopping trolley!.
Along the Marne there are lots of fallen trees along the riverside, some of which must surely project out 5-10m into the channel.
[* During winter-spring, all navigable rivers are liable to be fast flowing, in full spate].

Depths
Even on the mighty Rhone, with mid-channel depths of 3.5m+ (sometimes much more) there are shallows. As always, they can be in unexpected places (which term also includes the expected places one forgets about). Low islands and visible sandbanks almost always also mean there are hidden shallows around.

The Bends
The deepest water seems (usually, but not always) to be found on the outside of any curve or bend in the river. On the Rhone this can mean a difference of 3m or more.

Bridges
Bridge supports often have hidden bases that - nastily - step outwards below the waterline.

Banks
Many bank-sides are shallow (the canal or river is not a trough). Those that are not shallow are rocky, or have rocks one cannot see just below the surface. Those that are neither one nor the other, are often both. Midi Canal bank-sides are delightful, mainly consisting of a tangled web of tree roots, and shallows. (They are actually easier than other canals).
The accepted method for bank-side mooring (possibly for lunch) consists of gently setting the bow in, jumping off and setting a stake or (rond) anchor and then securing the stern - possibly letting it stay out where the depths are more congenial to rudder and prop. A pasarelle (gangplank) is often useful - we made ours from a cheap single section aluminium ladder and 3 decking planks. At least 1/3rd the cost of a chandlery-bought one. And smarter.

Boue
What's that? :: Click here

Bumper Boats
On the Midi, some (by no means all) hire boats can constitute a hazard. To navigation or to incident (damage) -free locking. They've got big rubber bumpers all round the boat and (because of lack of experience, or care, or both) they bump into things - walls, each other, us maybe. They also travel too fast - on the canal, in excess of the 8kph speed limit, and entering and leaving the lock (which reduces their capacity to control the vessel still further). We have been told that the hire companies (a) tell their customers not too worry too much about hitting 'private' boats because "they're all insured" and (b) set travel schedules for their customers that mean they have to keep pushing on as fast as possible otherwise they won't reach their destination depot in time and (c) do not advise customers about speed limits, nor limit the speed that boats can travel at - other than telling hirers "it's best not to exceed 2,000rpm" (which of course they can and do).

Electricity
A polarity reversal lead is essential - more supplies are 'incorrect' than 'correct'. We made up a short length of shore power cable, with one of the plugs wired 'wrong'.
Our 'new supply' connection method is (1) all boat main and sub-switches off (2) connect up, switch boat's main switch on, see if polarity reversal warning light goes on (3) if it does, add our reversal length into the power supply feed (4) switch on.
Besides the 'normal' 3-round-pin shielded cylindrical plugs found in most UK marinas, French shore supply outlets might only feature the smaller 'normal' French plug and socket format (2 pins, optional earth). We've bought a 10m French extension cable and had need of it. Wish we'd bought a longer one (E LeClerc or Carrefour supermarkets are a good source). Get a UK 3-pin socket adapter to plug into the French lead.
Shore supplies will not sustain the use of a fan heater, kettle, immersion heater and battery charger all at the same time. (hmm, not surprising, eh?).

Water
The usual water point features a conventional bib tap screw nozzle (as per UK), or the ubiquitous Gardena type garden hose plug-in. We bought a cassette compact 'roll flat' hose - ok but one has to unroll the whole thing every time, and then roll it back up squeezing the water out along the way.

Fuel
There are very few waterside fuel points (mainly fuel barges and marina fuel pumps). Fill up when you can. Be prepared to make trips to a filling station with jerry cans.

Back Up, Have Alternatives
Cooking, lighting, power . . Beyond Paris supplies of fuel and gas become less easy and often involve trips to supermarkets. Electricity is not available everywhere and even water is not as available as one might think. So make sure you plan. Take spares, have alternatives available for vital things, top up frequently as opportunities arise.
As examples, we have travelled through some wet and cold weather, especially so at night. For us, heating is not a 'luxury' so we have a variety of options ranging from low-power electrical (when shore supplies will not sustain our fan heater) to gas warm air (when no electricity is available).
We have come close to running out of both gas and water.

Showers
Many showers work on a 'jeton' (a token coin that one buys) and push button principle. Having inserted the jeton, press the button and wait for the water to come through warm (this can take a number of minutes). Some kind of device to keep the button pressed in saves constantly having to press the blinking thing whilst showering.
There are never enough hooks, or any. The floor always gets soaking wet, everywhere, and may be pretty dirty. Plastic bags (for one's things and to stand on post-shower) are useful. Flip-flops or something to stand on whilst showering might make the experience less grungy.
The capitanerie at Seurre has the best showers ever!
The showers at Sete capitanerie leave a lot to be desired . . .

Bikes
We thought we'd buy some alloy folding bikes, but luckily didn't have the spare money. Someone said "try your local dump" (ok, recycling centre . . ). What nonsense! Only the next day we just happened to be at . . and there was a folding bike in good condition. No saddle? One of the chaps whipped a nice saddle off another bike. Ours for £5. No chance of a second one, obviously. More nonsense, there was one the following week. Another £5. A day's thorough cleaning and application of WD40 everywhere made good bikes perfect.
We have found our bikes to be absolutely invaluable. Nipping a couple of km to the supermarket and back. Going off to view some local historic artefact or scenic location. Transporting heavy loads. Adding more pleasure to our days.
P.S So good were our £5 bikes that one got stolen!

Covers
It rains. Besides our spray hood, we have a tent over our mast, covering the whole cockpit area, using a eyeletted tarpaulin guyed at each corner. It has proved its worth, and we think this will continue when it gets hot and we want some shade. We found Compass to be unbeatable on price and quality is fine for this use.
The sun shines. Rather than an expensive Bimini thingy we have a B+Q garden umbrella. Works fine although we have not thoroughly wind-tested it yet (we wimp out and take it down!).

Navicarte Guides
The Navicarte series of narrow format books covers the entire French network. Each book contains important background information that is relevant to its waterway, information about places along the way, photographs of features such as bridges - and a clear page-by-page map of the whole course, with navigation information.
They are indispensable, but they also contain errors or are out of date in some aspect or another. For example, we found the same photograph used for two entirely different bridges, as well as the printed arrows used to indicate the 'correct' bridge span to pass under (a) being wrong (with reference to actual signs on the actual bridge) and (b) inconsistent for the same bridge featured on consecutive pages.

Other Books
We also found "Paris by Boat" to be really excellent, "Through the French Canals" useful and Hugh McKnight's award-winning "Cruising French Waterways" (comprehensive and descriptive) ranks high in our estimation. We have also found the AA France Road Atlas useful. >>Check out our recommended books page<<

The Tourist Office
Any place, make this your first port of call for advice, maps, guides, leaflets, etc - e.g "where is the nearest internet cafe?" Even quite small French towns and villages have tourist offices.

Voice  ::  Text  ::  eMail (+Web)  ::  GPRS

This is one serious complicated topic and occupied us (Ruth) for days if not weeks. We reviewed all the advice and options, which might be outlined as:

Voice Communications - for everyday

1. Use a public phone with a local network pre-payment card, or a third party card (which have cheaper rates). We use both.
2. Use a Calling Card for landline/phone box calls at US/discount rates.
   For example, France to UK 0. 24$/minute compared with 0. 47$/min from a UK mobile phone. www. telestial. com/intl_calling_card. php .
3. Use a Callback service for landline/phone box or mobile calls at US/discount rates. Essentially, one is provided with a (cheap) US phone line to make calls with. France, mobile phone to UK mobile 0. 63$/min or to landline 0. 38$/min. www. telestial. com/callback. php .
4. Use a local SIM card in a mobile phone, making it a 'local' phone (thus avoiding double charging - 'called' pays as well as 'caller'). The mobile phone must be 'unlocked' (released from single contract ties) but many mobile phone shops will do this (£10). We found that an SFR shop would sell us foreigners a SIM, but not an Orange shop. 'Pay as you go' (eg SFR La Carte - recharges from any Tabac) is quite possible, but a contract card needs a local address and a 12 month commitment. There is great confusion about whether these SIMs can handle data comms. (=we don't know the answer). We use 'La Carte'.

Text Messages - cheap

1. Use SMS text messaging - fixed cost low rate (12p/message) communications. Quite a lot can be said in one message, or spread over more than one. Some roaming UK mobiles (Orange?) block text messages back to UK. Texts can be sent from a mobile phone, or from a computer via the internet using www. 1stwrap. com, or from a computer equipped with GPRS. If you use a phone, you have to get used to pecking away at the keypad but it seems anybody under the age of 21 can do this instinctively, so why not us ageing ravers?
2. Send a fax - also cheap. Use a local bureau, or from your computer using fax software (Windows Fax Console).
   Emails can supposedly be sent to a fax number, using the formula remote-printer. <name>@<faxtelno>. iddd. tpc. int as the email address, where <name> is anything and <faxtelno> is the full international format telephone number for the recipient's fax machine [eg 00 44 plus the number without the leading zero and without gaps]. We haven't succeeded doing this . . . ["no service" messages].

Emails - excellent if you know the 'wrinkles'

1. Use a cyber cafes (£1-£2/hr) for emailing and internet browsing. They are to be found in quite small towns (ask at the Tourist Office), they are often friendy and helpful and usually (in France) have very fast broadband connections. Sometimes they cater mainly to the young person cyber-game market. Some will let you connect your own computer into their broadband network (they will then have to set it up to suit their system), so you can use your own email program (Outlook Express) and its settings. You can prepare all your emails in advance. Even where this is not possible, you can write your emails in advance and bring them in on a floppy disk as text files.
2. Downloading emails into your own machine can prove costly if folk send you 'big' files (e. g images) or you may be plagued with junk emails or may introduce a virus risk [you should be running antivirus software anyway]. You can 'preview' emails and choose which to download and which to delete - by using an internet email service at a cyber cafe, or by using MailWasher. See below for details.
3. Read, delete and write conventional (POP3) emails from any computer via the internet (eg at a cyber cafe) using www. mail2web. com or www. twigger. co. uk. When we need to, we use Mail2Web and it works well. Only drawback - the recipient sees your incoming email's address in an unfamiliar guise - e. g xyz234@ukhq. co. uk rather than your 'public' address.
4. If using your own machine, review all emails before they're downloaded and delete the junk ones and the ones not needed to be downloaded. Mailwasher : www. firetrust. com is what we use and highly recommend.
5. Use a web-based email system such as www. fastmail. fm [or Microsoft hotmail], from any computer via the internet (eg at a cyber cafe). Drawback - lacks the flexibility of mail2web or twigger because cannot handle conventional POP3 (Outlook Express) messaging.
6. Read emails using a WAP mobile phone www. mail2wap. com Does anyone use a WAP phone?
7. Individual 'dial up' email connections are usually cheaper and faster than internet connections**. Connect your computer to your mobile phone to 'dial up' using the conventional GSM network. The appropriate cable is obviously required. [** Cyber cafe internet connections can be very fast and as perfect for web-based emailing as for web browsing].
8. If using your own machine with a mobile phone, an ISP dial-up telephone number will be required - your UK 'home' one may not work abroad, or may be costly to call, so consider switching to an ISP with a portfolio of 'local' numbers such as Pipex, Virgin or Compuserve. Or use a 'local number for your ISP' service such as www. iberpass. com or www. net2roam. com. [This is not a requirement with GPRS]. People we have suggested Iberpass to have been pleased with the system and the customer service.

GPRS - great technology, poor customer service

Rather than GSM mobile communications, use GPRS, which charges by quantity transferred, not time on-line.
The Vodafone Mobile Connect (£100) card fits into the computer and acts like a mobile phone modem.

We are using a Vodafone GPRS card. Support from Vodafone for this relatively new product has been abysmal and has included incorrect advice, ignorance, wasted time and wasted money on international voice mobile calls while problems were sorted out. After 4 months use we were eventually refunded hundreds of pounds compensation resulting from this and from incorrect charging. All of this said, (a) we understand that the competition is worse, (b) the purchase price and value is good, (c) it is now working very well, with good reception nearly everywhere** (see below) and (d) it is reasonably fast and very convenient. The card also handles SMS text messaging in a highly convenient way (use the computer keyboard, not a mobile phone keypad). It also handles conventional GSM data connections, which is what we use to upload our website files to our UK ISP.

Some words of advice . .

1. Make sure you get the card fully sorted and authorised for international "roaming" use before you leave the UK (no one will know this or tell you).
2. In spite of what you may be told at the shop or even by Vodafone, 'roaming' use outside the UK carries a different price tariff (Vodafone's own internal information system had this wrong). What you pay will depend on the foreign network your GPRS card will log onto. There is no point in opting for anything other than the basic UK tariff since roaming allows for no 'pre-paid MB quantity'.
3. In France at least, each time you log onto the SFR network you will incurr a cost of about 1€ (= 100KB) regardless. Stay logged on for as long as possible, sending and receiving emails, or browsing the web. If you can leave your machine switched on and connected for days, then that's best because you will then be charged per MB transferred to or fro, not for each individual connection.
4. Emails sent or received (provided they're text, not images - see above for Mailwasher) are relatively economical. Browsing the internet can be expensive - at the very least, turn off 'view images' in your web browser (Internet Explorer). Drawback - some websites, especially banks, seem to depend on images for successful navigation.
5. Wherever possible, use SMS texting which is cheap and very convenient via the GPRS card, provided your messages are fairly brief or can be divided into smallish chunks.
6. Please learn from our problems with Vodafone. Make sure you get specific written tariff documentation that relates to where you're going to use the system (e. g not in the UK). It is more expensive than we were led to believe. We're still using it, but we're using cyber cafes and texting more than we were, and we're planning ahead to exploit long connection times.
   
   ** Reception
   Since originally writing this we found SFR GPRS reception at St Jean de Losne to be less than good. After yet more wasted calls and emails to Vodafone we eventually contacted the makers of the GPRS Mobile Connect card. They were very helpful and sent us a plug-in external antenna that has improved network connection no end. A link to their website is here

Be Prepared
We planned our passage across the Baie de la Seine to Honfleur, took account of tides, navigated and sailed successfully for some 11 hours. We then got ourselves and the boat in a pickle through not properly assessing what we would find at 'the other end' - a tide in the river itself that turns significantly later than to seaward, but which then flows strongly, that we would be tired and it would be dark, and that we would be entering an unfamiliar and substantial 'proper' lock, which was not something we were used to. The result of this combination of oversight and innocence was that the current pushed us into a big lock crossways, we got our ropes wrong, and because we were tired and the situation was dark, intimidating and unfamiliar we failed to extricate ourselves before the bow guard-rail hit the lock wall rather hard. Of course we then had to try and control or contain our dismay and overcome, which was not easy.
In Rouen, trying to be helpful to what seemed to be a reasonably competent crew on an adjacent boat ended up with our own boat out of control and in a certain amount of peril through no fault of our own, completely unexpectedly.
We guess one has to prepare for every aspect of what can be expected, but at the same time somehow cope when out-of-the-blue happens - as it will. Depressingly, expect the worst in every situation but be pleasantly surprised 99% of the time!

Fishing and Rowing
The French indulge both more than we have ever seen (and we've lived most of our lives near the Thames and Henley-on-Thames).

The most remote spot will feature a variety of bankside fishing 'spots' some just a well used convenient tree root, others fully fitted DIY mini pontoons with corrugated verandah and rod holders, and even mid-week some seemingly lonely but satisfied chap with his bait, rod and small white van. Urban riversides feature small boys and old blokes, the former appearing both before and after school, the latter at any time, and both often with multiple rods which they cast, leave, move to another place, cast again, go back to the first, etc. Spots by outfalls, and by boats seem 'specially popular or perhaps they're just curious and want an excuse to rubberneck us plaisanciers. No, no excuse needed or wanted.

There is also an amazing amount of rowing going on here (more northern France than southern), and kids especially seem to get a great deal of pleasure from it. One sees platoons of double sculls and sixes full of happy looking schoolkids (presumably during Games which we usually bunked off) and with their instructor in the regulation orange plastic dory and outboard. Of course, from our point of view they're quite often not looking where they're going and need some skilful helmsmanship to slalom amongst . . .

Dogs
[we are dog owners] It seems French people (a) like dogs (b) like dogs to bark a lot and (c) like dogs to poo everywhere.

Politesse
In many places it is usual to greet a shopful (or post office, but not a supermarket . .) of people as one enters - "bonjour" or leaves - "au revoir". A response is not obligatory. We've been in supermarkets where the manager said hello to his incoming customers. Particularly in country riverside places, it is polite and friendly to say hello to anyone one encounters. "Bonjour monsieur-dame" for a man and woman. We've had friendly waves from blokes in tractors working the fields. Don't expect to strike up deep meaningful conversations without an introduction, however. This is not America.
We were amazed at how civilised young people were towards one another. Cheek kissing (2 or 3 times - we haven't yet sussed the rules) upon greeting is normal. Down south it's not uncommon between young guys. A handshake is very usual, in almost all situations. Contact reinforces relationship.

Motor Scooters
French kids have lots of these, and make a lot of very very loud buzzing noise using these. In some places it is de rigeur to wear your full-face helmet atop the head, hat-fashion.

Rules and Regulations
Here, if you ignore rules it's normal. If you ignore rules and get 'caught' you might be in big trouble.
Many public places, for example ancient monuments, are not as 'fenced in' as they would be in the UK. If you fall off and break a leg, well c'est la vie.
On the other hand, we were given a hard time by a small village jobsworth/bureaucrat who cited "La Loi" and demanded "Respectez-moi" (subtext "or else") when we asked questions.

Lunchtime
Most shops and offices close completely for lunch, usually between 12:30 and 14:00 or thereabouts. This includes big supermarkets, post offices, banks . .

Time
Seine, Marne, Saone and Rhone rivers, and associated canals
** Average about 10km per hr, each lock adds about 1/4hr to the journey.

Marne-Saone canal (many locks, lift bridges and required 1.5hr lunch halts) and Canal du Midi
** Average about 3-4km per hr overall; Day = no. of locks x 1/2hr

Fuel consumption about 2.5litres/hr, or 3.5km/litre

Money
1250km Poole to St Jean journey comprised 158 ecluses and 27 days travelling (59 days overall). 31 nights of paid-for moorings during our journey to St Jean de Losne cost approx 400€ total, the rest were free (including a number with free water and electricity - we are very grateful to those local communities who provide such facilities).
St Jean de Losne to Saint-Gilles comprised 15 days travelling a distance of 507km.