Voyaging the Western Mediterranean

Costa Azahar - Valencia - Costa Blanca - Torrevieja

Wed 14th- Thurs 15th July
VILANOVA

[no pics, sorry]

25nm, 4hrs 25min. The wind pattern seems to be clear: light northerlies in the morning, veering on-shore south-east during the afternoon and building to about 15-18 kts. Some good late afternoon sailing and we get to Vilanova i la Geltru. Slightly by chance, but a really good decision. Good marina (but a bit pricey), terrific town and super beaches with very fine sand. In the evening we join in the general 'paseo', strolling up the long avenida. Also by chance, this is International Music week in the town square and we are treated to a (free) late evening concert by a top Colombian rhumba band, complete with ageing gentleman singer in white suit and straw hat. Sort of like George Melly and his Red Hot Latin American Feetwarmers. Real foot stamping, arriba arriba, stuff. And also by fortunate chance, we are berthed next to Nina and Dick in their traditional yacht. They've been afloat for 20 years and over supper we get a few kind words of advice from two masters.

Fri 16th - Sat 17th July
EL RECO
[no pics, sorry x2]

28nm, 5hrs. Thanks to Nina and Dick we are encouraged to anchor in 4m depth, off the beach but in the lee of a breakwater, at Punta del Reco south of Tarragona. It's a really good spot, even if the beachfront resort is . . well, not where we would choose to fly to. We spend two days lazing and swimming off the boat.

Sun 18th July
SANT CARLES
[no pics, sorry x3]

47nm, 8hrs 40min. A long leg, sailing and motoring and rounding Cabo Tortosa the delta mouth of the mighty river Ebro. Behind the headland is a large sea-lake, with Sant Carles de la Rapita at its entrance, where we anchor for the night, and where there are lots of mozzies. We go into the club nautico to fill with water. Bad idea - we get charged 6€, only after having filled up. Daylight robbery.


PENISCOLA
..and the other one's got, a big bald spot, exactly like his Pop..

CASTELLON

VALENCIA
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GANDIA

DENIA
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CALA SARDINERA
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Mon 19th July
18nm, 3hrs 50min. We're really getting into this anchoring lark, this time just outside the harbour, but inside the bay, at Peñiscola (that's "Pe-nyiscola", not the decidedly unappetising "Penis Cola"). Ha ha.
Tues 20th July
28nm, 5hrs 45min. We're going great guns, heading past Castellon towards Burriana when the engine note changes and we lose 1 kt. Not willing to risk a complete stop during the last hour of the journey, we 'take a right' into this large commercial harbour. As it turns out, Castellon is another lucky accident. The club nautico is excellent, so is the town, we are berthed next to a friendly (but quiet) racing yacht bound for Majorca, and the engine trouble turns out to be a plastic sack wrapped around the propellor, dealt with by Jim donning mask and snorkel, wielding a sharp saw, and diving underneath.
Wed 21st-Fri 23rd July
35nm, 7hrs. And so to Valencia. The large marina (making preparations for the next Americas Cup) is some way out of the city, but it is sheltered, friendly and has a brilliant swimming pool. We get taxis into town, see the sights (excellent Tourist Office), and get ourselves sorted out with a Spanish mobile phone sim-card.

Sat 24th July
28nm, 7hrs 15min. Some good sailing during the day and we reach Gandia, which has a large harbour with a smallish pleasure marina to one side. The town looks like it might be nice, but for us this is very much just an overnight stop.

Sun 25th July
17nm, 4hrs including sailing with 24kts of wind. We were going further, but at Denia we encounter strong headwinds and a short uncomfortable choppy sea, on the nose, and we face another hour rounding a steep headland. We decide to duck into the harbour. Of course, within a couple of hours the wind has dropped and the swell is reducing. Anyhow, Denia has a spectacular location, under rocky cape and mountains. The marina is clean and smart but with the most amazing amount of form-filling ever. It takes 40 minutes to get the information into their computer and we are issued with three separate receipts. In the morning it takes another 20 minutes to get a refund on our water usage deposit (we end up paying 48 cents).

Mon 26th-Wed 28th July
7nm, 1hr 30mins. A delightful and sheltered anchorage, in 8m of clear water in a rocky inlet just south of Javea called Cala Sardinera. During the day there's us and a few other boats. During the morning we are visited by droves of purple fringed jellyfish but they're gone by lunchtime (where? why?). During the night there's just us and our anchor light, and it's very peaceful.

ALICANTE
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TORREVIEJA
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Thurs 29th July
43nm, 8hrs 30min. Alicante. Big very expensive marina with some bloomin' big white motor boats in. Lovely city, overlooked by a castle on the hill. We would have loved to have stayed longer. But we did have some excellent sailing getting there - fair winds and following seas nearly all day. Lovely.

Fri 30th July - Sat 7th August
23nm, 5hrs 40min. Once again, great sailing getting to Torrevieja, and a superb sheltered anchorage in the large, clean, harbour. We call up our friend Rai, who overwintered with us near Dijon, who now lives here and who broadcasts on the local English language radio station. Good fellow, he's got us a discount deal on a marina berth which we take advantage of for a couple of days, then its back to anchoring.
And updating the website . . .

MAR MENOR
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TOMAS MAESTRE
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Sun 8th August
On Saturday 7th we're all set to move on but we encounter a short steep swell, beam on to the boat. The resulting extreme pitching and yawing is just too uncomfortable, so we turn round and head back to harbour. The following day is much better, we get to Tomas Maestre at the entrance to the Mar Menor (inland sea-lake), wait for the bridge to open and then head down to the southern edge, anchoring at Puerto de los Nietos. 21nm, 5hrs 30mins.
Mon 9th August
12nm, 2hrs. With 20+kts of wind behind us, we cross the Mar Menor and anchor for the night in the breakwater protected outer haven back at Tomas Maestre. After the wind, we have a lovely calm, quiet evening.
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